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This web manual gives an overview of the basic setup for the Collarum™.
A complete set of assembly and setting instructions are included with
each Collarum™ sold.
Note:
For
your safety, you should wear eye protection, a long sleeve shirt and gloves
when working with the traps.
Illustration 11 |
Step 11 - Mount
the cable
Before placing
the Collarum™ in the ground, you should practice mounting the
cable. Begin by placing the cable under the cinch spring hook and
through the groove in the throw lever. There should be 2 or 3 inches
of tail beyond the cinch spring hook for best results. The cable runs
alongside the arms and should be lightly gripped by the clips. For
the best lay,the cable side that ends at the lock should be under
the anchored side of the cable. |
Illustration
12 |
Step 12 - Properly positioned cable.
For coyotes and
large dogs, you need 7" - 8" of space between the bait cap and the
cable to ensure the cable fires over the forehead. Once your trap
is assembled, you may want to practice set and fire it a few times
before taking it into the field. Again, protective eye wear, arm and
hand protection are called for. |
Illustration
13
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Step 13 - Uncock
the trap
Before we go set
this in the ground, I want to show you how to uncock the trap without
actually firing it. Remember to keep pressure on the trigger. Begin
by disengaging the cinch spring. Put the trap on a solid surface and
place one hand over the throw lever and trigger dog and put body weight
on that. Slowly lift up on the trigger with the other hand. This will
allow the trap to fire in slow motion and give you control over how
quickly it fires. |
Illustration
14 |
Step 14
- A
well-made set.
Nearly all of
the elements essential for successfully placing a foothold trap
apply to the Collarum™ as well. Many books have been written
and videotapes made of those, so I won't reiterate here. What I'd
like to do is point out some considerations unique to this trap.
I consider four elements in placing this device:
1) backing, 2) elevation, 3) slope, 4) space.
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1)
Backing:
By using natural features or enhancing the background behind the cable
and around the bait cap, you can funnel or channel the canine's approach
and pull. To capture canines with the Collarum, they must pull the
cap from the "spring" side. If the pull comes from the side where
the cable is unsupported it will hit under the chin and slide off.
Even very small features in an otherwise open landscape can be used.
Regardless of size, good backing is essential to the successful use
of this trap. |
2) Elevation:
I prefer the trap set 3" - 12" above the animal's foot
level, e.g., just off the side of a worn trail. This means the bait
cap is easier to investigate with the nose and mouth, and the canine
is not as likely to paw. Elevation is nice, but not essential. |
3) Slope:
A slight slope
or sidehill helps make an effective set. With the cable slightly
higher than the spring end, the cable is already on its way over
the head when the trap is sprung. Slope is nice, but not essential.
Illustration 14B
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4)Space:
The cable requires adequate
room for an unobstructed throw. Overhanging twigs, brush, etc. must
be removed. The cinch spring also requires several inches of unobstructed
space to fire fully. The trap can be used without the cinch spring,
but the capture rate is decreased. (If the cinch spring is not used,
the cable must be anchored close to the cable support arm on the same
side the cinch spring would occupy. See Illustration 18.) Space for
the cable throw is essential; space for the cinch spring is not. |
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Some sets have been nothing more than the Collarum™ spiked
down on the ground surface then covered with dirt to resemble a
freshly dug dirt hole. In most cases though, the Collarum™
is bedded in a shallow hole. Start by laying the trap in place to
judge what needs excavating. Be sure to clear space beneath where
the trigger will sit. All that's necessary for the cable is a shallow
groove.
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Illustration
15
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Step 15 - Nail
down the throw mechanism
Once the hole is dug, the
throw mechanism must be nailed down to prevent the animal from lifting
it out of the ground as it pulls the bait cap. Nailing also prevents
rotation as the cinch spring fires. Use the two holes in the base
that sit alongside the trigger bar. Do not
use the hole in the base where the cinch spring mounts. Hold down
on the trigger during the nailing to prevent firing of the trap.
Driving the nails at an angle to form an X underground gives good
holding power. Soil conditions will determine how long and large a
nail is necessary. In hard ground, 6" ring shank nails work well;
in softer ground 8" rain gutter nails work. In very sandy soil you
may need to deadman the trap. By using small nails the trap is less
prone to damage because it can be pulled loose and kicked out of the
way by the animal once it's captured. This will also decrease the
chance of injury to the animal. |
Illustration
16 |
Step 16 - Anchor
the cable
To anchor the
cable, I normally use a Berkshire double-stake swivel at the end of
an in-line spring. The spring adds cushioning to the system and should
be used for live-capture applications. I anchor the cable in front
of the trap. Other systems can be used, e.g., a bullet stake or an
extension cable attached to a tree, etc. |
Illustration
17 |
Step 17 - Trap after firing
Whatever your
system, the cable needs to be anchored such that the cinch spring
pulls the cable tight against the anchor as it fires. If you use a
cable extension this would mean you need to "pin" the cable near where
the cinch spring mounts to the base. |
Illustration
18 |
Step 18 - Trap
without cinch spring
If you choose
not to use the cinch spring because of lack of space or very hard
soil conditions, the cable should be staked to the side of the trap,
near where the main coil of the cinch spring would sit if it was being
used. (Not using the cinch spring will result in a decreased capture
rate in most circumstances.) |
Illustration
19 |
Step 19
- Cover
the springs
After mounting
and anchoring the cable, I place a cover over the springs to keep
them grit free for better firing.
You can now
cover the trap. My motto is: light is right! Cover the cable support
arms and throw mechanism with material that will remain loose and
unfrozen, much as with any bedded trap. Whenever possible, I use
local vegetative matter to lightly cover and disguise the cable--keeping
it free from freezing in place. Large clods, clumps, rocks, etc.
can be placed inside the cable loop and around the bait cap. This
area remains unaffected by the firing, and soil compaction or freezing
is less critical. I generally place something over the spring area
to discourage the canine from stepping on it when it's pulling the
cap. Cactus pads, thorns, sticks, stones all work well for this.
This is a worthwhile precautionary measure, but not essential. The
set's now ready for baiting.
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Illustration
20 |
Step 20 - Ready for baiting
This trap will
only be effective if you can get the canine to bite and pull the cap.
I've found it works well to place a strongly scented lure a few feet
from the cap, then a milder, sweeter bait on the cap itself. I want
the animal to roll, scratch, pee, etc. away from the cap then come
to the set ready to bite. I'm sure every area has its own knowledge
and lore concerning what baits will work, and what type of bait cap
will work. Trappers who've used M-44's will have some tips for you.
Dogs have been successfully trapped using a piece of steak wired to
the cap. Coyotes have been taken using dog food as bait. Marshmallows
dipped in scent as a pre-bait and then as the pull cap bait has worked
for M-44's. Some studies have shown that coyotes are attracted to
objects that visually contrast with the background, i.e., a white
cap and a dark background, or dark cap with a snowy background. |
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